good with coffee

British Pies: welcome to a world where pies comes in all shapes & sizes

Unlike American pies, which pretty much come in one shape (think classic apple pie in a tin plate), British pies come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. It seems that everything enclosed (or half enclosed) in a pastry shell is called a pie.

Country of origin: UK

What is in a pie

Pie, in general, is a baked dish with a crust encasing a filling. Pies can be sweet (apple pie) or savory (pork pie, steak pie, etc.) They can be baked in a dish or free standing on their own. Free standing pies look like a stack of hockey pucks!

So depends on what you are in the mood for, there is a pie for you.

A Brief history

The British have a long history of baking. But they did not invent the first pie; the Egyptians did. The Romans also made pies and likely to be the ones that brought them to the British Isle.

Pies appear in recorded British history as early as the 12th century. At that time, the crust was referred to as “coffyn”. The coffyn was merely a vessel for what resides inside. But over time, as the techniques and flavor profiles improve, the outer layer become more edible and palatable.

Various regions of the UK have developed different pie specialties. It all depends on the local agricultural scene . For example, in Cornwall, housewives made star-gazy pies, at a time when pilchards (adult sardines) were plentiful. In Scotland, mutton is the main filler in its Scotch pies. Overall, steak & kidney and steak & ale pies are both very popular everywhere in the UK.

Interesting facts about pies

Every year, pie makers compete in British Pie Awards during British Pie Week. There are 20+ categories in this annual pie-off event. This stuff is serious!

One thing that takes this uninitiated American eater some time to get use to is that many of these pies are supposed to be eaten cold. Cold, as in, room temperature or right out of the fridge, never ever hot out of the oven. About half of the pie categories at the Pie Awards are judged and supposedly eaten cold. How quirky!

But trust history and the power of food evolution! This cold meat encased in rich pastry is delicious.

A few traditional pies

Here is a list of pies that I have compiled that I aim to try. Some are classic pairing of ingredients, others are local specialities.

Mince/Mincement Pie

The name is a bit of a misnomer today as the pie no longer has minced meat in it. Mince pie started out life as a way to use up precious meat about to go rancid. To disguise the strong flavor and smell, old recipes called for lots and lots of spices. Nowadays, it remains a spiced pie (no meat) popular during the Christmas season.

Melton Mowbray Pork Pie

This geographically protected pie (EU PGI ) is so popular that it is mass produced and available in supermarkets. You can read about the history and my experience with this savory treat here.

Steak & Ale Pie

As a beer brewing/drinking country, the UK has a long history of beer making. So it’s not totally surprising to use this dark liquid to tenderize the meat and infuse the pies with flavors.

Steak & Kidney Pie

This is another classic combo. Sometimes called Kate and Sydney pie, it is closely related to its pudding version, which first appeared in Mrs. Beeton’s recipe collection in 1861.

Bramley Apple Pie

Bramley apples are native to the British Isle. Similar to Granny Smith apples for American apple pie, they are quite sour.

Cornish Pasties

This is another geographically protected (PGI) pie progeny. All Cornish pasties are made in Cornwall in accordance with strict guidelines. They, however, do not need to be baked in Cornwall. So you can enjoy fresh Cornish pasties in London or elsewhere without having to get to Cornwall.

Shepherd’s/Cottage Pie

In the UK, shepherd’s pie usually refers to a lamb pie, while a cottage pie is made with beef. These are open-face pies, topped with mashed potatoes.

Where to experience an authentic British pies

Pies are literally everywhere in the UK (and in its former colonies too!). You can find them in the supermarket or takeout/take away shops or in fine dining restaurants. You will also encounter them in farmers markets all around town. These are often ready to eat for the grab-and-go crowd.

At the very least, I suggest trying a Melton Mowbray pork pie. If you are in London, Mrs. King’s at Borough Market offers authentic Melton Mowbray pork pies. Otherwise, you can find them in supermarkets as well.

Banbury Cake: please confuse me with an Eccles cake

While researching Eccles cake, I inadvertently came across Banbury cake. After all, you can say they are pastry cousins. First cousins born in different parts of the country.

What is a Banbury cake?

Place of origin: Banbury, England

Like Eccles cakes, Banbury cakes are not cakes per se (at least in the eyes of this ignorant American), but rather, flat currant filled pastries. Unlike Eccles cake though, Banbury cakes are usually oval, not round. The oblong shape also gets a few slashes on top.

What’s in a Banbury cake?

Although named after its birth place, Banbury, these cakes do not have name or geographical protection. So there is no specific requirements.

Many variations of the cake exist. As old recipes were guarded as secrets, generations of bakers created their own versions by sampling, guessing and recreating from what they’d tasted. The earliest published recipe, appearing in The English Hus-wife in 1615, includes currants, eggs, barm (malt liquor), cloves, mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, cream, milk, butter and flour.

Old recipes, such as the one from 1615, differ from the modern ones, not only in shape, but also in method and flavor. You could say that the recipe “evolves” with people’s taste buds. If you follow The English Hus-wife receipt to the T, it probably would have resulted in a much denser product, something more like a loaf of bread than a flaky pastry.

Modern recipes usually call for puff pastry to make the cakes lighter and also use spices and currants. Sometimes bakers may also add a splash of alcohol to bring out the sumptuous flavors. Rumor has it that the secret recipe long used in Banbury includes rum and brandy.

A Brief history

Banbury cakes date back centuries. Banbury is a historic market town in Oxfordshire. It is about 30 miles north of Oxford and 30 miles south of Coventry.

The exact origin of Banbury cake is unclear. The first written reference to Banbury cake appeared in Treatise of Melancholy by Timothy Bright published in 1586.

According to Cake & Cockhorse, a publication by Banbury Historical Society, Banbury cakes were first sold in town starting in 1608 at 12 Parsons Street.

But supposedly, centuries earlier, crusaders returning to England also brought back a currant spice cakes- Holy cakes, which inspired the creation of Banbury cakes.

Banbury, being a historic market town, close to Oxford and Birmingham, means that Jewish traders were more than likely to have been present. But whether they were the original creators of the cakes, well, no one really knows.

Another theory has Banbury cakes being adapted and created from Hamantash (Haman’s ears) that Jews eat at the Festival of Purim. Records show that Jews settled in England predating the crusades. After King Edward I expelled the Jews in 1290, some Jews remained in the area and practiced their faith secretly.

Interesting facts about Banbury cakes

Old recipes from centuries past used yeast as the leavening agent before the invention of chemical rising agent. Many old recipes also call for “double paste” to be used- one to mix in with the filling, and one to use as the envelop.

Some say Banbury cakes were the original English currant cakes and that all the other cakes, i.e. Eccles cakes, Chorley cakes and even black buns, all are spinoffs of the Banbury cake.

Banbury cakes seem to be related to bride cakes. The associated to weddings was even mentioned in Bright’s Treatise of Melancholy.

Who should try Banbury cakes?

I think Banbury cakes are worth trying if you like sweet and flaky pastries. It’s a good on-the-go snack. Freshly baked, preferably straight from the oven, are always better than ones that have been sitting in the display case for a while.

What’s the difference between a Banbury cake and an Eccles cake?

This is THE million dollar question. Besides the fact that one is round and the other is oval, there are very few inherently distinctive features that set them apart. Both have a pastry outer shell. Both have a mincemeat filling.

After trying half a dozen Eccles and Banbury cakes, (read about my quest to try them all here), I can tell you from experience that they taste very similar (accounting for some chef/bakehouse interpretation liberty). I have not detected any pattern or trend during my taste tests.

Where to buy Banbury cakes?

Banbury cakes seem to not be as popular as Eccles cake in London. I’ve only found two bakeries, Rinkoffs Bakery and Percy Ingle, that offer them. Online, I was able to find bakeries in Oxfordshire that offer Banbury cakes.

If you can’t locate a store near you, perhaps try ordering them online at Brown’s Original Banbury cake. They still handmade Banbury cakes in Banbury area. Run by Philip Brown, the same family has been making these cakes for centuries. I didn’t get a chance to order one when we were in the UK last, but it’s on my to-eat list when we return.

Eccles Cakes Smackdown: which Eccles Cake reigns supreme

It started innocently with one Eccles cake because I never had it before. It was good, not amazing, but good enough to make me want to taste more to confirm that the first one was not a fluke. Before long, here I am, writing about Eccles cakes I’ve consumed in the last several weeks.

The accidental one

The first one I tried was an accident. I didn’t mean to try it then and there. But after a long meandering trek through Richmond Park, we ended up in an ASDA. Thirsty and hungry, I eagerly searched for a snack to tie me over until we get to a hot meal. As usual, I had trouble deciding what I wanted. Casually browsing in the baked goods isle, I happened to see some Eccles cakes in clear plastic containers.

They looked fresh.

Outside, while waiting for the bus, I eagerly took my first bite.

My first thought was that these were pretty yummy.

The pastry was fluffy, the filling light, borderline sparse. The shell envelop had the same consistency as those packaged croissants. Chewy and pillowy, but not flaky. The filling consisted of a few raisins and a little bit of jelly like sauce. Not overpowering.

Overall, for a snack that cost 1 pound for 2 pastries, I thought the price was fair and the food decent. This only piqued my interest in finding and trying a fresh Eccles cake.

The intentional Eccles cake

My second experience was at St. John bakery at Neal’s Yard. Everything was so different from my ASDA experience. Comparing the two would be like comparing apples to oranges.

For starter, the appearances were so different. While the supermarket version looked light and pillowy, St. John‘s Eccles cake appeared to be a solid envelop. About an inch and half thick, it felt quite substantial.

Biting into this little package revealed layers upon layers of flakiness surrounding a dense core. The filling was more of a thick paste and did not have a jelly-like in texture. This Eccles cake was absolutely delicious!

The only itsy bitsy complain I had was that it was simply too sweet for my not-so-sweet tooth. The generous currant filling was too much for me to handle. I ended up taking out half of filling because it was too overpowering (in a good way, but overpowering nonetheless).

Maybe this is why in the restaurant, they serve this dessert with a wedge of strong Lancashire cheese – to balance out the flavors.

This Eccles cake definitely hooked me.

The not expecting much one

I first saw Real Lancashire Eccles Cakes in a Tesco Express, hidden in a corner in a crammed aisle. I didn’t buy them then but I made a mental note to add them to my grocery list.

Well, I got them when I did our weekly grocery run at Sainsbury’s a few days later. They were £1.60 for a pack of 4. The packaging was rather plain, a bit “old school” if you will. I didn’t try them right away, but thought they would be good with a cup of tea.

To be honest, I didn’t expect much. After all, this is a grocery store, a.k.a mass produced, version, even if it appears to be old school.

Well, what do I know?

It more than exceeded my expectation. Again, no idea what kind of pastry the outside was (my best guess is that it’s flaky because I don’t see any puffed layers beyond the space between the filling and the top).

This was YUMMY with a capital Y.

In fact, I think the filling struck the perfect balance (at least for my tastebuds). It was not pasty like St. John’s, neither was it overly sweet. Also, it was not as runny as my other grocery store Eccles cake experience. Best of all, I could taste and make out the texture of the actual vine fruits.

I really really enjoyed it!

I think this would make a perfect gift for my foodie friends back home.

The on the side Eccles cake

I visited Hirst Bakery in Lewisham in search of gypsy tarts to try.

After ordering what I went to get, I spotted Eccles cakes from the corner of my eye. So in the name of research, I walked out of the cute little shop with a mini gypsy tart (my main goal for this visit) and an Eccles cake on the side, just because.

This Eccles cake was flatter and wider than the others. The brown sugar on top was partially caramelized. It did not feel “packed” like some of the other versions I’d tried. The signature slashes on top were also not distinctive.

To be honest, I was probably too quick with my ordering. I should have looked at it a little longer. Maybe I would have realized that this was not going to be something I would enjoy. It, visibly, had way too much sugar on top. Not only was there caramelized brown sugar crust, there were also additional granules of sugar sprinkled on top.

The inside was airy, with a sparse amount of vine fruits, and more brown sugar.

Way too nauseatingly sweet for my taste. I did not enjoy crunching on sugar crystals.

The saving grace of this Eccles cake was the freshness and flakiness of the pastry, especially the parts that were not encrusted in sugar. I think it would go great with a strong tea to balance out the sweetness.

The might as well addition

Clapham The old post office bakery eccles cake

By this time, a few weeks had gone by. And I had more than made up for my lost time- having had various repeats of the Eccles cakes mentioned above. I was ready to move on to to discovery the next chapter, (i.e. pies), of my exploration of traditional British foods.

Having read about London’s oldest organic bakery, The Old Post Office Bakery, I set out to to look for for a Chelsea bun, Victoria sponge and/or bread pudding to try.

Well, on the day I visited. The bakery did not have breading pudding. Nor Victoria sponge. And they had run out of Chelsea buns.

Deflated, but not defeated. I scanned the trays in front of me, searching for my consolation prize. Everything looked good, but everything looked bread-y, except for a short stack of Eccles cake.

It wasn’t what I came for. And to be quite honest, I felt a little hesitant after my last impulse Eccles cake purchase. This one looked very sugary- lots of granulated sugar on top, as well as non-existent slashes…hum….

But what the heck, I needed a sugar fix and thought I might as well further my research. Looking back, I think Eccles cake god was not ready for me to move on quite just yet.

Impromptu Winner

Boy, was I glad for that impromptu decision.

It was by far my favorite Eccles cake during my short affair with them.

The look and feel of this pastry was very similar to that of St. John’s Eccles cake. It felt substantially, maybe even hefty for such a little package.

The pastry was flaky. When I bit into it, the layers simply shattered in all directions. The filling was just sweet enough, but not overly so. It was neither pasty nor syrupy. It was just “wet” enough to compliment the flakiness of the outer shell. The bakery added its own twist by mixing in bits and pieces of dates into the traditional currant/raisin mix.

It was simply divine. My might as well Eccles cake turned out to be the prince in frog disguise.

Eccles Cake: an English classic or a dying relic

Eccles cake is the first of the traditional foods I researched intentionally and tried accidentally. The BBC in a 2017 article calls it a “British institution.” Hum…I had no idea.

What is an Eccles cake?

Place of origin: Eccles (now in Greater Manchester), England

An Eccles cake is not a cake (by American standard anyway), but a round pastry, about an inch to an inch and a half thick, with a sweet filling inside. The filling usually consists of sugar, vine fruits (currants and raisins), spices, sometimes candied fruit peels, and maybe even a splash of sherry or brandy.

The Law’s Grocer’s Manual by James Thomas Law, published, in 1902 describes Eccles cake as “a sort of currant sandwich, very like Banbury cakes, only not made so dry. There is no definite recipe for them, every confectioner using his own way, the great guiding principle, however, being currants, sweetness and lightness.”

Since Eccles cakes do not have name or geographical protection under EU or UK law, bakers everywhere can make them with their own proprietary recipes/proportions/combinations and still call them Eccles cakes. As you can imagine, this means there are A LOT of varieties out there.

A Brief history

Like many traditional English cakes, Eccles cakes began life as a food eaten during a local religious feast, namely Eccles Wakes, held at the end of August for three days in Eccles. The parish of Eccles was historically part of Lancashire, now part of Greater Manchester.

The Eccles & District History Society credits James Birch as the first person to sell Eccles cakes commercially. Birch opened his shop in 1796 opposite Eccles Parish Church.

No one knows exactly who invented Eccles cakes originally or where Birch’s recipe came from. There is one theory out there that the “sweet patties” from Elizabeth Raffald’s influential cook book, The Experienced English Housekeeper, published in 1769, were the precursors to Eccles cakes. But any evidence linking Raffald and Birch are now lost in history.

Besides the mysterious origin, no one seems to know definitively whether the proper pastry for Eccles cake should be flaky pastry or puff pastry or even short pastry either. The ingredients and proportions for these different types of pastries are quite similar, if not identical. Nonetheless, the different processes and techniques create entirely different textures in the final pastries.

Making a huge assumption that the original Eccles cakes evolved from Raffald’s sweet pies, then the original Eccles cakes were probably made with puff pastry, as that was what Raffald used in her recipe.

Perhaps any pastry would do even back then!?

I read somewhere that Eccles cakes were made by housewives as a way to use up scraps of pastries left from making other dishes. I also have seen references to scraps being used, not only as the outer wrap, but also as part of the inner filling.

What a tasty way to combat food waste!

Interesting facts about Eccles cakes

Eccles cakes are similar to Banbury cakes, Chorley cakes, Cumberland cakes, Hawshead cakes, Coventry Godcakes and Clifton puffs. It seems like old English people really like wrapping their dried fruit mixture in a pastry and call it a cake!

Eccles cakes were super popular in the 1800s. These sweet treats were exported as far as America and the West Indies.

In parts of England, some people refer to Eccles cakes as dead fly pies because the currants look like… dead flies. I think I will stick to calling them Eccles cakes, thank you very much.

Who should try Eccles cakes?

Doh! Everyone. This is one of those crowd pleasers.

Like fashion, they seem to be going in and out of popularity (at least in the UK). In 2004, Greggs decided to stop including Eccles cakes in their lineup, even in their Eccles branch.

But a decade and more later, they are being found in local bakeries in London. I recently asked two English friends what they thought about Eccles cake, one had fond memories of eating them during school lunches. The other one made a face and found it funny that I thought they were delicious.

How to enjoy Eccles cakes?

Eccles cake is typically eaten at room temperature, though I’ve read many recipes suggesting serving it right out of the oven or warming it up in the oven for a few minutes.

The first time I warmed up my Eccles cake, I didn’t have enough patience for the oven to heat up, so I popped it in the microwave. While my cake did not cause any fire, microwaving Eccles cake apparent IS a fire hazard (See 2017 BBC article.)

It also makes the cake super soggy from the butter being melted out of the pastry.

So the lesson of the day is- have more patience! Or just eat it at room temperature. It is delicious either way.

Another way to enjoy an Eccles cake is to eat it with strong Lancashire cheese. That’s how famed restaurant St. John’s serves it.

Where to eat an Eccles cake in London?

Eccles cake seems to have a bit of resurgence. You can find Eccles cake in many bakeries and even supermarkets.

St. John’s bakery at 3 Neal’s Yard, Seven Dials, WC2H 9DP. Or at one of their restaurants.

The Flour Station They have multiple locations, including in Borough Market.

The Old Post Office Bakery at 76 Landor Rd., Clapham, London SW9 9PH. They do have other outlets, including some farmer’s markets.

If you can’t make it to a bakery, I suggest looking for Real Lancashire Eccles Cakes in your supermarket chain. According to their website, this company churns out about 600,000 Eccles cake a week only a few miles outside of Eccles.

I’ve seen this brand in supermarkets (Sainsbury’s, Tesco and ASDA). These are better than they look! Definitely worth a try.

Click here to read my reviews of various Eccles cakes I’ve tried while in London.

Speaking of supermarkets, many of them offer semi-fresh ones from their bakeries. But I find their authenticity a bit questionable. I tried a pair from ASDA. While they taste very good indeed, the texture seems a bit off (super fluffy, chewy and not really flaky).

Making your own Eccles cakes

Here is a recipe for Eccles cakes from St. John’s Bakery, published by The Guardian.

The process of making Eccles cakes seems straight forward. Roll the pastry out, put the prepared filling in the middle. Gather and fold in the sides to enclose the filling, essentially creating a little dumpling.

Turn the pastry dumpling over (so the gathering is on the bottom) and flatten the package by rolling it out a bit. Then, slash the top 2 or 3 times with a knife. These slashes allow steam to escape and provide little windows for views of the enticing currant filling. Some versions also include a sprinkle of sugar on top.